Kicked in the head by Yakuza

*I had a gig last night in Osaka, my first electric gig at The Blarney Stone near Higashi- Umeda. It was me on lead vocals and guitar/bass and Andy on the Drums. Anyways, we rocked out till nearly 3am(then the place closed). My new friend Louis came out, he lives in the same neighborhood Erin and I live in, so we were both looking at several hours before we could catch the morning train back home to Goido. We decided to walk south, down Midosuji(a main street that cuts Osaka city down the middle from North to South) and make our way to Namba Station, a central train station, were we could catch the early morning train.

*On the map it looked super far, but it only took us about an hour and a half to walk.
So, we arrived near Dotomburi around 5am and decided to cop a squat in the main crossroad of foot traffic of Dotomburi, people watching and just chatting till the trains started up around 6am. We were right in area where the most famous bridge in Osaka is located, also the iconic "Big Crab" was right at our back.

This is the bridge in Dotomburi
The night moved on and turned to morning rather quickly. All the while a constant flow of foot traffic never stopped. The nightlife scene in Osaka is a truly sleepless breed.Gorgeous Japanese girls stumbling around in their short shorts and thigh highs, drunk salary men puking and singing down the road, slick Japanese gigolos and pimps with their alladin lookin' shoes and black suits hustling for customers, drunk foreigners being led on the shoulders and arms of friends, and, on this particular morning, there was me and Louis, two normal dudes just waiting for a train. Not drunk. Not in the sex industry. Not weary, haggard salary men. Not passed out on the bench. Not homeless. And, certainly not looking for a fight.

*It was about 7am and from the distance, maybe about 50meters, I heard shouting and loundness, which, at this point, was not a big surprise considering our location. As they came closer, I noticed it was a group of five 40-something year old Japanese men, in disheveled suits, yelling and stumbling their way down the street, toward our general direction. Their suits were not salary men suits, but nicer. By their swagger and obvious aggressive behavior, these guys were no doubt drunk and not ready to quit. There were a group of young, gigolo-type Japanese guys sitting near me and Louis, minding their own business, when this group of older drunken men started harassing them and jumped them. They grabbed one dude by the hair, and was yelling in his face, while a few of the other men started punching the other three younger guys. One guy was bleeding from the mouth. The young guys did nothing. They did not fight back. This led me to another deduction, these drunk older guys in disheveled suits where more than likely yakuza, which in the name for the Japanese mafia. Only yakuza could act so brazenly in public, in a high traffic area, in Japan, with no regard and no fear of consequences.

After beating the young guys, more yelling and rolling for the r's(this is one characteristic of how yakuza speak, which is a more rough way of talking in Japan) one of the yakuza guys got in our face as we were still sitting on the park bench, shocked at this every un-Japanese display of violence. The one guy was in my face, yelling what I think was "Dare!", which means "anyone" or "who"; I'm assuming they were looking for any takers. I was wearing a towel around my neck, a custom I've adopted while living here, which he grabbed and yelled some more in my face. I was calm, but naturally freaked a bit, this whole time. I still did not feel that I was in any present, unavoidable danger. I kept a cool head and continued to assess the situation. Louis was still next to me. They did not attack him. Then, another yakuza guy gave me a kick to the face. Seriously, a kick to the face! Not much of a kick though, 'cause these guys were totally drunk, so it didn't knock me over and it certainly couldn't do any damage. After that, they left us and went down the street a bit more.

At that point, two police officers came into the scene. What happened then further proved that these guys were definitely above the law. They got right up in the officers' faces, yelling at them, bumping chests with them, still relentlessly acting with aggression. This went on for at least five minutes, even still as we left the scene to catch our train in the subway. The group, police officers and yakuza, drifted onto the famous bridge where you can see the Osaka icon, "the Running Man", and the drunk yakuza guys were still yelling and challenging the officers. The cops did nothing, just like the young guys that got beat up, absolutely nothing. No handcuffs were drawn, batons, nothing. One yakuza guy even picked up a yellow and black pvc pole, maybe about 4-5 feet in length, that was used to section off a construction site nearby, and brought it over to the bridge where they were yelling at the cops and started banging it on the ground and guard rail. It was like watching an aggressive group of gorillas, beating their chests and making loud noises. Louis said that more officers showed up, but still did nothing. It was definitely time to leave.

We made our way onto the train, heading back to the safe, quite comfort of our little town of Goido. Japan is not like this. Just the day before, Louis, Erin and I were discussing how safe it is in Japan, how you can sleep on the street or the train and not worry about someone stealing your stuff. And, definitely violence is a rarity in this group-oriented society of Japan. That's why this spectacle was so utterly shocking; to witness this display of drunken aggression and the untouchable power that the yakuza weilds, let alone be caught in the storm of it, was an eye opening experience. It also made me realize that violence like this, drunken aggression, or any type of violence for that matter, is the same all over the world, and just as pointless no matter who's involved or where it occurs. I've witnessed my share of bar fights and drunken melees in my line of work as a musician playing late-night gigs at bars, and this was no different. I'd actually have to say that these yakuza guys were more talk than fight, just proving their presence, status, and power. I'm glad I made the decision not to fight back, considering the circumstances and the people involved, and keeping a level head in the face of aggression. Though, I know if I had felt more threatened or deemed the situation harmful to by being, I would have had to defend myself. Plus, I'm certain that if we were to challenge these drunken yakuza guys, it would have only escalated what was already a tense situation. I was not hurt, nor was Louis, thankfully, so we're lucky to leave unscathed with our first, and hopefully last, run-in with the Japanese yakuza.
*pics were taken the just before the incident, though I did not get a moment to take any during or after the attack.

Aikido Training in the Mountains, A Long Way from Where I Started

Two weeks ago I attended a weekend training camp with my Aikido club in Tenkawa, Yoshino in the central southern mountains of our Nara Prefecture. I had been looking forward to this weekend ever since I signed up for it months ago. Initially, Erin was planned to go to Tokyo for a huge anime convention, which fell through, so I figured it would be a good time for me to travel on my own as well. Even though Erin's plans fell through, she still encouraged me to attend the camp, seeing it as I did, a once in a lifetime experience.

I have been fairly new to martial arts, but it's been in my heart and mind for much longer. When I was young, I discovered a book one day at Cal City Library titled, Zen In The Martial Arts by Joe Hyams, an personal account of Joe's experiences training in several martial art styles, his insights and lessons learned from various teachers including Master Bruce Lee. I must've borrowed this book from the library dozens of times, each time probably wearin' out the pages but the words still fresh in my head with each story, anecdote, and philosophical insight. Sure, back then in the eighties-early nineties, every kid had fantasies of being a Karate Kid(one of my all-time favorite movies) or a ninja, but this book introduced me to the mental and philosophical side of the martial arts. It was in this book that I first read about Aikido, a traditional by fairly new martial art that was created, like many other disciplines, here in Japan. Here's a link for further history and info, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aikido

I fell in love with the principles of Aikido, the seemingly simplistic forms and application and beauty of the art. It was not until moving here to Japan did I have the opportunity to finally begin my training in this tradition Japanese martial art.

Prior to coming to Japan, my martial arts training started just a few years ago at the Degerberg Academy in Chicago, a great facility and staff who introduced me to several disciplines of fighting techniques for almost two years. It was here where I finally began to do what I had always read in books and watched in movies and TV. After my membership ended at Degerberg and the momentum of life was quickly building with our wedding, our moves, and eventual Big Move to Japan, I had to put my martial arts on the back burner, but I promised myself that once we were settled in Japan I would find someplace where I can pick it back up. I am grateful for for finding the school I attend know, Kashiba Aikido Dojo, and for meeting everyone there.

It's been almost a year since I started training at Kashiba Dojo, an easy bike ride from our place, and I've learned so much and at the same time realize that I've got so much still to learn. First off, all the practices are, of course, in Japanese. So, through the language barrier, it's a huge challenge for me to grasp the lessons each week, not just for the actual, kata(the physical forms or "moves"), but to understand the purpose and deeper meaning of aikido, the philosophy. This is no easy task for a person who has, at best, a kindergarten language level of Japanese. So, back to the basics, as with everything I had to do initially upon integrating myself into a Japanese lifestyle. If I can't rely on my ears, then eyes and hands don't fail me now! I also am fortunate to have had my prior martial arts experience and training from Degerberg in Chicago, which had given me confidence and an understanding of body mechanics that is applicable and indispensable to my Aikido training. This would be tested ultimately during the weekend Aikido camp.
*I also found a great book on Aikido many years ago, Aikido and the Dynamic Sphere, which intially fed my interest in Aikido and currently is my personal text book to studying Aikido on my own.










I was a little worried but mostly excited to get to spend a whole weekend with my classmates from Kashiba dojo, discovering a new part of Japan I've never been to, and learning more about Aikido. My worries came from my poor handle of the Japanese language, even after a year of living here, but I knew everyone in the dojo would be more than helpful and friendly throughout the weekend. We met in the morning by Kashiba Sports Center to board the big bus bound for Tenkawa. It was only about two hours away, but a beautiful drive, especially when we got into the mountains.
We arrived and met in the ryokan(traditional Japanese "hotel") for formal introductions and lunch, then dressed in our gi(uniforms) for today's lessons. We hopped on the bus again which took us to the training building, a nearby junior high school across the river about 15 minutes away. The highlight of all the training sessions were the ones we used weapons, my first time. I mean, back home at Degerberg I began learning Filipino stick fighting, Kali, and knife fighting, but this was the first time to practice with a bokken(wooden sword) and Jo(wooden staff) in very traditional and disciplined Japanese manner... it was awesome!


One particular moment I will never forget occurred very early Sunday morning, after a late, late night of drinking and singing during the enkai(drinking party). We all woke up at 5am, some still sleeping, sore, and/or hungover, dressed in our gi for morning training. I was actually feeling pretty good, even though I was one of the last to sleep and drank my fair share of sake and beer(and some liquor from Okinawa that felt hot in your throat n belly). We filed in line and followed our sensei outside, down the road in the misty morning. We walked and came to a suspension foot bridge across the river, which is not the kinda thing a person reasonably scared of heights wants to deal with at 5 in the morning. Gambattene! We crossed the swaying bridge, five men at a time as the sign indicated, which opened up to a baseball field at the base of a mountain. There, we found our sensei sitting seiza(legs folded underneath) facing the mountain, his bokken at his left side. We all followed suit, taking our place on the hard gravely, sandy ground(almost all baseball fields, soccer fields, any sports fields in Japan do NOT have grass). Let me tell you, sitting seiza is not comfortable to begin with, you have to condition yourself for this posture; but, sitting seiza with tiny pebbles under your bear feet and thinly clothed knees leaves an impression, both figuratively and literally. Itaiiii!!! But after awhile, you just push out the pain and focus on the training. We trained with wooden swords under that mountain before the sun came up, our voices echoed back at us, our feet bruised and sanded smooth. Our lesson ended for now, we retired back to the ryokan for a nap before breakfast, and more training that morning and afternoon.


The whole weekend was an amazing experience. Not only because I was able to learn more about Aikido and practice the things I've already learned, but it gave me great insight and understanding into Japanese culture in general. This was the first time I've been in the company of only Japanese people for more than just a few hour.


We ate, drank, trained, and slept in the company of each other, and it was so great to be part of this community, with welcomed acceptence. We shared jokes, thoughts, and cultural differences and interests throughout the weekend.

It just enforces my observations that we are all the same, no matter where in the world we are. Yes, there definitely are differences due to culture and tradition, but it was simple to see that people are people. I think if you can share a laugh with a person or group, there's an understanding there that's beyond language. For me, the same goes with sharing music. We definitely laughed the whole weekend, and even shared music. Aikido is also like this for me to some degree, a measure of personal understanding with those I train with. I guess it's kinda hard to explain, but I know, without words, that I can communicate with my classmates through Aikido.



I'm so happy and fortunate to have this opportunity to train at Kashiba Dojo, with my sensei and all my classmates. I don't know how often, or if ever, they've had a gaijin(foreigner) at Kashiba dojo, but they have treated me with great love and respect, and overwhelming kindness. The weekend in Tenkawa was no different and I feel even closer to everyone after the camp.

Ohanami and playing tour guide

May is ending here in Japan, and my first spring outside of the States was quite colorful and festive. I had my first experience of the Japanese tradition of the Ohanami, or flower-viewing get-togethers held in parks, river banks, and anywhere the Sakura(Cherry Blossom) trees were blooming. It was great to be in the company of friends, enjoying the warming weather, and seeing all the other families and parties enjoying their ohanami.



I also took the time to walk and bike around our neighborhood in Kashiba, and enjoyed the local sakuras in bloom.

I can't help but reminisce that a year ago Erin and I started our adventures in Door County with our wedding and a magical summer. Now, here we are in Japan, a year later. I think we've settled into our way of living here, day to day, but Japan is still so new and exciting to experience and share. We recently had a couple of out-of-town visitors, our first, and it was so great to show them around and share the things we've learned and seen since our arrival here last August.

Our first visitor was my buddy Mike, who came from Tokyo to experience Kansai for the first time. He's from back home, Lansing more specifically, but living and studying at Sophia Uni in Tokyo till August.
It was great fun to show him around, revisit some of the sights I haven't seen since we first got here, feed him some good food, and also create some new adventures.
We went to Osaka Castle, a Ninja Village and castle in neighboring prefecture of Mie(that's correct, a real Ninja village!!!), a little bit of Nara(where, on our way, we randomly met a great family from DC on vacation who happened to be lost and at our local train station of Goido. I played Nara tour guide to them and Mike for the afternoon, and it was a great twist of fate to have their company for a traditional Japanese lunch at a great little Okanomiyaki place our friend Elaine introduced us to), and a bit of Kyoto before he had to get back to Tokyo.






I forgot, I also had the great opportunity to meet up with kuya Rich, my cousin Corrie's husband(who we stayed with on New Years Eve in Tokyo), while he was visiting Kyoto for a day and a half with a friend. It was great to see him again, and another great chance to visit Kyoto.


And just recently, our friend Shotaro came to Kansai for yasumi(holiday) and I got to show him around and eat some really good food in Nara and Osaka. We actually met Shotaro through Rich and Corrie, he's a family friend who's from the Tokyo region as well. Haven't seen him since our first meeting around New Years Eve, so it was great to reconnect after so many months. Unfortunately, Erin was in Kobe for a JET conference, so she could not partake in the the Kansai sightseeing.

Also, this past month, there was Golden Week, which is a block of holidays at the end of April and beginning of May when many people utilize this precious time off for travel around Japan or abroad, or just relax and not have to worry about work. For us, we had the great fortune of spending a few days of Golden Week with our friends Chetan and Doug from South Africa, in the mountains of Mitsue Village, where Chetan lives. They are both JETs like Erin, and we had great fun. We actually met them up at the Ninja Village I mentioned earlier, but it was packed and late, so we just created our own ninja adventures and enjoyed the atmosphere. On this particular day there was a "Ninja Fiesta" as Erin translated from the banners, and a majority of the people, families, and patrons wore their ninja costumes. So, it was interesting to observe whole families, little toddlers, couples wearing the ancient garb of the ninja... not so sleathy when you're sportin' a pink ninja gi with a fanny pack strapped to your waist, but it's all in good fun.




This month we also met our friend Elaine's visitor, her good friend Nalini, who was coming from Dublin, Ireland to visit Elaine. We all bid her farewell at this great Okanomiyaki place in Nara(the one I later took the DC family and Mike to for lunch) that Elaine suggested. Great food and great company including Elaine, Nalini, Sarah, Jack, Erin and myself.

So that was our first Japanese Spring. I also kept quite busy playing gigs the past several months, but I'll put up another post for that news. The Sakura is definitely beautiful, and I can understand why it's been the subject of many a poem, song, and painting throughout Japanese history. The trees only bloom for a brief few weeks in the Spring, all over Japan, so it is a very special event and cause for celebration each year. I am thankful that we could experience this Japanese tradition with our new friends here.