Exploring Kyoto, Part 1 of 3: Ohara

In an attempt to crack this massive iceberg that has been blocking my motivation in recent months, I decided to update(finally, right!?) my adventures in Japan.

When last we left our destined hero, he was pulling fisticuffs with the ruffians in the early morning hours with drunk Japanese gangsters on the streets of Osaka. Between now and then, I've traveled the seas to another continent, reacquainted with old cronies and family, and slink ed into a hermit like state of hibernation, escaping the chilly winds of winter. Though, I did find a few things to break my self-imposed monasticism, and brave the real world, only to crawl back in my cave to meditate on past and future events. Here are some things that I did.
Our Ryokan in Ohara

Kyoto, the regal city of traditional Japanese culture, steeped in history and prestige, always provides an interesting perspective of Japan. The first adventure takes us to Ohara, and small village town where Erin and I went for a weekend at the beginning of January. Erin discovered this little place while randomly researching Kyoto to find a place of respite from our daily routines we've grown to know too well. We started off from our place by train to the immense Kyoto Train Station, where we hopped on a bus which took up through the city and out the top. The buildings lessened and the hills began to roll by as dusk set it and our destination drew closer. We were the last stop on this bus route, so by the time we arrived in Ohara it was just us and two other people. We were picked up in a big, warm van by one of the staff members of our ryokan(traditional Japanese guest house). It was a short ride, and we were met with pleasant welcomes as we took off our shoes and signed in and was shown our room.


In a typical ryokan, it's just one big room, the floor is tatami(traditional woven straw) with some basic amenities, including our own yukatas(traditional Japanese robs). As you can see, you have to make your own beds, so there's usually a closet where the beddings are stored. Like the Princess and the Pea.




After we got situated, we took advantage of the wonderful bath at this particular ryokan, which has an outdoor area with a huge iron cast barrel bath. It was great to be outside, soaking in the hot water, mocking the cold air of winter, surrounded by trees and silence. I found a little lizard, though, floating lifelessly in one of the outside baths. I scooped him up and placed him near the rocks on the edge of the bath. Looks like he got too comfortable in the wonderful heat. I'd meet him later, after dinner, when we came back for our second bath before bed.



Dinner was another amazing experience, again taking advantage of the specialty that our ryokan serves, which is Miso Nabe. Nabe is like a brothy stew, cooked right on the table top by adding various vegetables, meat, and seafood to a boiling pot of nabe broth. This broth can vary depending on taste and region, and here in Ohara in our ryokan, they serve a miso-based broth. Miso is a salty, sweet paste made from soybeans that is a staple in Japanese cooking and cuisine.

After dinner we got back to the bath before they closed up for the night, and one last dip outside to relax and steep in the night. Would you believe it, I visited my lizard friend again, and found him, upright but motionless. I guess this little guy was enjoying the baths too, and was in some sorta state of hibernation when I found him floating in the water, though I thought he was dead. I said good night to him and went back to the room for a good night's sleep.


I woke up rather early, and decided to take a few photos of our garden view before an early breakfast of traditional Japanese fair. After breakfast, what did we do but hit the bath one last time before we checked out. We decided to walk to this nearby temple, Jakkoin Temple, which was built in 594! The morning was misty and crisp, with a light drizzle as we walked through the village to the temple.


Climbing the stairs which no doubt felt the footsteps of generations of historical figures, we couldn't help but be inspired by the weight of history this little temple held.
But, the most imposing subject I found in the temple was the 1,000 year old tree(which unfortunately fell victim to a fire in 2000, but was still standing there). It was amazing to walk around the thoughtfully manicured gardens and ponds, and feel the energy of the past lingering on this sacred ground. Erin chatted with the lady in charge of tending to the temple that day, and learned a bit of info on the history and sect of Buddhism that is practiced there. We left, the sun peaking out of the clouds now, and walked to find our way back to the bus stop.


We came back home, relaxed, though agreed that it was not enough time. I think this was our first moment of downtime since we had arrived back to Japan from our whirlwind visit back home. Though our visit home was fantastic and so needed to connect again with friends and family and just be "home" after over a year, it, too, was a short and hectic 10 days. I think, even into the next months we were still reeling from the bittersweet shock of changing environments and gears, from Japan to Chicago and back to Japan, so going to Ohara was our first real chance to catch our breath and reconnect with Japan.

Here is a link to MORE PICTURES!!! from Erin's camera, posted on Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=97467&l=bf407&id=701680316